Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes

Suzy has a very special conversation with the Rome-raised, Paris-based fashion designer Giambattista Valli, about his work and his view of the fashion industry, and its impact on his life.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to Joan Burstein, a.k.a. Mrs B of Browns, the legendary, groundbreaking boutique in South Molton Street, London, which Mrs B co-founded in 1970 with her late husband Sidney.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to inspirational South African designer Thebe Magugu about his career and vision.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy talks to iconic textile designer Celia Birtwell, ahead of the exhibition Mr & Mrs Clark, which explores Celia's work with her former husband, the late Ossie Clark.

The exhibition will take place from 17 September 2022 - 8 January 2023 at Museo del Tessuto, Prato, Italy.

https://www.museodeltessuto.it/en/exhibitions/ossieclark/

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to Dr Matthew L Scullin, American materials scientist and CEO of California-based MycoWorks, a company helming the drive to use fungal mycelium to make clothing and accessory materials.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to American designer Daniel Roseberry, the current artistic director of the iconic brand, as Schiaparelli open their long-awaited retrospective exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, Shocking! The surreal world of Elsa Schiaparelli.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to the new artistic director of Pucci, Camille Miceli.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Just as finishing touches are made to the auction Hubert de Givenchy the Collector at Christie’s headquarters in Paris, Charles Cator, Deputy Chairman of Christie's International and confidente of the haute couturier, exclusively talks Suzy through the designer’s art collections and furnishings, and discusses Givenchy’s love for artisans.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Ahead of this year's Homo Faber exhibition in Venice, Suzy speaks to Hanneli Rupert, organiser of the event and board member of the Michelangelo Foundation, and Alberto Cavalli, the foundation's executive director. Together they discuss this year's international show, championing artisanal talent. Homo Faber takes place from 10 April until 1 May 2022.

https://www.homofaber.com

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to a photography legend: the ultimate celebrity insider, Dave Benett, who has taken iconic shots of Kate Moss, Elizabeth Hurley and hundreds of others. Dave has recently opened his solo exhibition, Great Shot Kid, at the JD Malat Gallery in London's Mayfair; it's showing until 8 March 2022.

https://jdmalat.com/exhibitions/dave-benett-great-shot-kid/

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to an American success story: designer Anna Sui about her world, her career and how the 1990s provided her moment.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy speaks to legendary and distinguished fashion and textile designer Dame Zandra Rhodes, about her life and career.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For her first episode of 2022, Suzy talks to fashion designer Simone Rocha about her ten years in the fashion industry, and winning the award for Independent British Brand at the 2021 Fashion Awards.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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This week, Suzy celebrates the career of Manolo Blahnik, who speaks to Suzy from his home in Bath, England. They discuss his life, his parents, his factory and his archive collection, currently viewable at https://thearchives.manoloblahnik.com.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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This week, Suzy celebrates the career of Tommy Hilfiger, who speaks to Suzy directly before receiving an Outstanding Achievement award at The Fashion Awards.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For this special episode, Suzy is taken on an exclusive tour of Raeburn's shop, archive and lab in Hackney, London, guided by Christopher Raeburn himself. Along the way, Suzy catches up with the designer about his company's visionary stance on sustainability.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For her second episode of season five, Suzy talks to Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage for Cartier, about the centenary of of English Art Works, the Maison’s historic London workshop.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Suzy talks to Kaat Debo, director of the MoMu (fashion museum) in Antwerp, about the reopening programme of the museum, Fashion 2.021 Antwerp – Fashion/Conscious, and about Antwerp's crucial place in fashion history.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode 8 of season 4, Suzy brings you a Couture special. Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, discusses his first Couture collection for the house and the revival of Balenciaga Haute Couture. In fact it’s the 50th couture collection for the brand, because Cristóbal Balenciaga’s final show was his 49th. Fifty-three years after the original Balenciaga salon was closed, the company’s haute couture has been revived for Autumn Winter 2021/22. The show was presented in Avenue George V with a famous modern audience, with François-Henri Pinault of the Kering luxury group, and hats by Philip Treacy.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode 7 of season 4, Suzy talks to Raffaello Napoleone about celebrating the 100th edition of Pitti Uomo, the world renowned menswear trade fair of which he is CEO.

Have you ever wondered how your clothes end up in the shops? Buyers descend on trade fairs once or twice a year to purchase stock to fill their shelves. It may come as a surprise that not all clothes come from the runways of Paris and Milan.

As the premier men’s trade fair gets back into post-Covid action it has been decided that Pitti will be ‘double-track’ with a digital week as well as a physical week. And, in parallel form, there is a growth of the digital platform - Pitti Connect - which the visionary CEO founded 12 years ago.

Watching the line-up of peacock males displaying their latest looks in Florence’s historic Fortezza da Basso - the location of the trade fair - underscores that powerful Italian spirit of past/present, seen also in the historic city itself.

As well as his role as CEO Pitti Immagine - a non- profit Italian organisation to promote the fashion industry and Made in Italy - Raffaello Napoleone heads up Pitti Bimbo for children and Pitti Filati for yarns, while current powerful changes to sustainability are also transforming Italy’s attitudes.

Can the physical format of a trade fair and - above all - its interaction with people, really be revived? The dynamic director has stretched his wings to include trade fairs of artisan perfumes, food with its flavours and tastes, and home wear. They all prove, post Covid, that growth can start at home.

Raffaello is also one of the founders of the Polimoda fashion school set up with Linda Loppa to help preserve the Italian fashion industry. In teaching and in fashion, he looks always to the future.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode 6 of season 4, Suzy talks to Diane von Fürstenberg, wrap dress innovator, DvF founder, New York City philanthropist and supporter of the arts, about her life, work and current activities, including her latest book, Own It: the Secret to Life.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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This week I am joined by handbag designer Anya Hindmarch for episode 5 of season 4.

The witty, wise and tirelessly energetic Anya Hindmarch, always open-minded and willing to share her wide-open heart, talks to me about her latest amusement. 

Anya has taken over a post-pandemic empty street in the Knightsbridge area of London - and transformed it into an Anya Village, offering the things she loves and believes in - from her famous handbags to products that are less harmful to the planet.

She has also just published a book, If In Doubt, Wash Your Hair, which is filled with advice on how to be happy. Her words are profound, defining the character of a woman whose life would be considered quite a challenge: she created a business at age 18, when she came back from Italy carrying a handbag that was to define her life.

Five children later - three inherited from her widowed husband and two of their own - Anya continues with her world-wide accessories business - and with dollops of fun and a CBE awarded by the Queen.

- The Anya Village on Pont Street London, SW1X opened on 17th May 2021.  

- If In Doubt, Wash Your Hair: A Manual For Life, Bloomsbury Publishing, 2021

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis 

To find Suzy's articles visit https://suzymenkes.com

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Dries Van Noten talks to Suzy about his career spanning 30 years. He began his career in 1986 designing his own collection of menswear. 

Since then he has flourished with sophisticated & poetic shows in Paris, marrying art and craft.

He discusses being part of the alumni of the “Antwerp Six” who graduated from the strong-minded school, Royal Academy of Fine Arts, between 1980–81 and managed, with the help of intellectual teacher Linda Loppa, to plant the seeds of style in the Belgian city.

Known for his vibrant prints and use of colour and flowers, Dries creates a balance of reality and dream. 

When one aspect came forward - like the magnetic combination of the pragmatic Belgian realist and haute couture genius Christian Lacroix - the effect marked fashion history.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Many of you heard the sad news of Suzy’s dear friend Alber Elbaz who passed away this weekend - another victim of Covid 19 

Over the next few weeks - so much will be written about this THIS exceptional & thoughtful designer who loved & wanted to support women.

But as a TRIBUTE to Alber, and as a gesture to the remarkable person he was, we are re-issuing the podcast recorded nearly a year ago. 

The best way to remember Alber will be to hear him speak - as when he talked it was such joyous company to be in.

Here are his words and his laughter.

Produced by Natasha Cowan.

Edited by Tim Thornton.

Music by @joergzuber.

Graphics by Paul Wallis.

Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.

Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.

To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Happy Birthday Michael Kors! Congratulations for celebrating 40 years in the fashion business!

Michael has so much to say - and it was such fun to talk with him about his 40 years in fashion that we are re-releasing the podcast as a bonus so that his wise and witty words can be heard again and his imagination, energy and lively spirit can be revealed. Having just had a preview across the pond of the special anniversary collection, I know that it features a specially curated selection of iconic pieces throughout the four decades of being in the industry. Plus we will be treated to a Broadway performance with award winning musician Rufus Wainwright. What a celebration for Michael, and a pleasure for us.

Michael Kors, whose American sportswear label is celebrating its 40th anniversary is marking the event with a thoughtful reappraisal of his past and future, where highs have included dressing stars from stage, screen and state, from Jennifer Lopez to Angelina Jolie to Michelle Obama, whose bared shoulders the designer brought to the fore.Michael talks to Suzy about building his own label in the 1980s and designing for Celine in Paris from 1998 to 2004, before expanding his brand in the US, and ultimately across the world.

Kors has not only built a fashion business but also a powerful luxury accessories empire, under the name Capri Holdings Limited. This conglomerate includes his own mighty label and also Jimmy Choo and Versace.The current pandemic brings a thoughtful response from Michael Kors, who is the first American designer to miss the September timetable of fashion week shows and move his own presentations to October/November. His insightful vision on reducing the speed and the amount of fashion in a post-Covid era is enlightening.

Here is a chance to hear the real Michael Kors, and to learn that feeding the hungry is as important to him as dressing the famous.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis.

Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes ...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Welcome to the fourth series of Creative Conversations with Suzy Menkes where we are celebrating a year since I launched the first episode of my podcast: an interview with Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior.

In the first episode of this new season, I am joined by Orsola de Castro who spearheaded the global movement for change within the fashion industry and now heads Fashion Revolution.

For Orsola de Castro, all you need is love. Love for fashion, and love for all beautiful things - that last. Talking now, in 2021, to the passionate founder of Fashion Revolution, is a lesson about lasting. Or, as she puts it: “Re-wearing your clothes can be a revolutionary act.”

Loved Clothes Last is the title of her new book, published by Penguin Random House - and a passionate ode to the rebirth of old friends, lurking in closets and stuffed into drawers.

Up-cycling is so much more than a fashionable trend. For Orsola, it was born of the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh, where an eight story building, rammed with clothing workers, collapsed eight years ago in 2013, leaving a death toll of 1,134.

Instead of wringing her hands, like so many in the fashion business, Orsola asked herself WHY people demanded ever cheaper clothes - and what could be done to make a lasting difference.

It was then that Orsola founded fashion‘s largest global activism movement: 'Fashion Revolution’ . It was designed to change the way the industry works, and to bring cultural change in our attitude to clothes.

April 19th until 25th marks Fashion Revolution Week where over 100 countries will come together to take responsibility, remember the lives lost, and demand that no one should die for fashion.

In our conversation, Orsola’s urgent enthusiasm reminds us that we can all be fashion revolutionists. That our clothes deserve new lives, instead of being cast off and thrown away.

Her book is a mix of practical repair with thoughtful and passionate commitment to fabric and treatment that would prolong life.

The 8th Fashion Revolution week is happening across the world from the 19-25th April.

There are many ways in which you can participate, spread the word and educate yourself. Let’s believe that today’s fashion and textile industry CAN change, and evolve, and become more transparent.

Visit fashionrevolution.org to get involved.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode 7 of season 3, our guest is the Hermès Creative Director - Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.

Hermès has a deep history, founded on horse saddles, but now famous for its neckties, handbags and increasingly for its discreetly elegant clothes.

It is not just a mighty and classy brand, it is also a family business of six generations.

Co-chairs of Hermès today are two cousins: CEO Axel Dumas and Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Vice -President, Artistic Director and son of Jean-Louis Dumas, who revolutionised Hermès and grew it as an international luxury company.

The current designer has become part of the family. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski - whose name reflects the variety of her background - talks to Suzy about how she is developing the brand as “quiet luxury”. Call her a purist or a gentle spirit, the designer’s aim is to move the brand forward, with imagination and intelligence.

The artisanal roots have run deep in the house of Hermès since 1837, with over 20 artisan crafts workers now producing, as well as Ready To Wear, fine-jewellery, lipstick, furniture, perfume, watches and, of course, those famous handbags.

The company, known for their warm orange colour, which is not listed with Pantone, maintains a responsible ethos to the planet ensuring traceability, certification protecting and preservation. The Hermès artisans also work on ‘petit h’ - a concept which ingeniously transforms remnants of leather silk crystal, and porcelain, horsehair, buttons and metal, into brand new objects.

Hear Nadège talk about her timeless and witty design, and approach to colour and form, what Hermès stands for, and how its horsy history has always galloped ahead in fashion, making Nadège an exceptional designer for a famous brand.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode 6 of season 3, artist Sterling Ruby explains to Suzy why he was invited to take part in Paris Haute Couture with his label S.R. STUDIO. CA. LA. COUTURE and how he went from a construction site to constructing haute couture. Crossing the boundaries of art - by using fashion as an artistic medium of self expression.

Coming from a hippy and punk background, Sterling Ruby talks about the challenges he faces as an artist and designer in achieving an urban feel, working on the surface of materials with bleach, minerals and hand dying - pushing the boundaries between artistic mediums.

The artist first dipped his ‘brushes’ in the fashion world when Raf Simons and he met and forged a relationship, which took them to Dior and Calvin Klein and beyond on a route of ‘Americana’.

Hear from the artist himself, Sterling Ruby, on his approach to couture and his rise to fashion through the art world. 

@sterlingruby

@srstudiolaca

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Photograph Courtesy of Melanie Schiff

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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In episode 5 of season 3 Suzy is joined by Leonard Lauder - the chairman emeritus of Estée Lauder who is known around his company as "Chief Teaching Officer”. And for good reason.

As the brand turns 75, Leonard Lauder has written a book The Company I Keep : My Life in Beauty published by HarperCollins. Apart from discussing his latest volume, he will also reveal how much he learnt from his mother Estée Lauder herself - and how he built a special connection with philanthropy, and with the world of art.

Leonard Lauder, who lives with his photographer wife Judy, discusses how he made Estée Lauder the General Motors of the beauty business - with multiple brands, product lines and multinational distribution.

Does the current beauty boom in tough times have parallels with the earlier post-World War boom? Or is it technology which has encouraged us to buy make-up online whilst we are all stuck at home?

Leonard tells us from his own lips how Estée set the standard, and how he has taken it to the future.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Behind the story of the little boy who sneaked over to use his mother’s sewing machine is a man who has had a profound effect on famous fashion houses: from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel to Ralph Lauren, Valentino to Gianni Versace.

Making hats not just for his friends, like fashion lover Isabella Blow and designer Alexander McQueen, but also the Royal Family, plus all the clients he has across the world - some formal, others wild and wonderful - it is Philip who describes the hat as "not only an accessory, but a visual indicator."

The secret of Philip Treacy’s success is not his connection to fame - although well deserved - it is his extraordinary talent. This is all currently displayed in a large-scale exhibition of his hats at the Erarta Museum in Saint Petersburg, Russia, which has people queuing round the block to see it. 

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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Wes Gordon, the Creative Director of Carolina Herrera, talks to Suzy about dressing Kamala Harris in a white suit on November 7th 2020, the historic evening she became the first female Vice-President Elect of the United States of America.

The choice of designer and the fresh, bright white pants suit was a powerful symbol of the new attitude of President elect Joe Biden.

As the Carolina Herrera company celebrates 40 years in business, Wes Gordon reveals to Suzy what it’s like dressing actors from a young Meghan Markle to Katy Perry and Gwyneth Paltrow and how he’s dedicated himself to the Herrera legacy, supported by Puig, the Spanish fragrance and fashion group.

The 33 year old designer discusses his passion for flowers, nature and lively sense of colour, contrasts within the sophistication of the New York studio.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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This week I am joined by by Andreas Kronthaler the designer, otherwise known as Vivienne Westwood’s husband.

Andreas talks to me about transforming the story of sex, fun and punk into a thoughtful and successful brand. It now has a goal of activism, sustainability and a mission to persuade people to shop wisely and consciously.

What did Andreas bring from his Austrian roots? Was he inspired to study jewellery from the influence of his blacksmith father? And how did he move from jewellery to fashion?

Andreas - usually leaving the talking to Vivienne - reveals unexpected details of the Westwood tale we thought we knew so well.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash

Edited by Tim Thornton @timwthornton

Music by @joergzuber

Graphics by Paul Wallis

To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 

...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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For episode eleven Suzy speaks to Iris van Herpen and Game of Thrones actress Carice van Houten as they collaborate for a digital presentation for this season's Autumn/Winter 2020-21 Haute Couture Week. The fashion industry has had to rethink how to present the collections, and each house has turned to submitting digital presentations instead of the traditional live-show format.

One such designer on the couture schedule I have been lucky enough to catch up with is Iris van Herpen. Here she talks to me about the short film she has submitted to the Fédération de la Haute Couture and how she called upon her fellow Dutch friend and Game of Thrones actress, Carice van Houten, as muse, inspiration and collaborator on her fashion film, “Transmotion”.

Van Houten plays a far more gentle character in Iris’s fashion performance than she does on GOT. “Iris’s work feels like it lifts you up and completes something in you, like a second skin and another dimension,” Carice says.

In our interview, Iris describes the “Transmotion” couture dress that Carice wears as “a diaphanous bloom of silver white organza, and translucent layers within an undulating form, tracing the fluid outline of the creation”. Made by Iris under lockdown, its name refers to “visionary or creative perceptions of the seasons and the visual scenes of motion in art and literature”.

“I believe fashion has a big influence on who we are today and really reflects where we are heading, inspiring us to recreate ourselves and to re-see our identities and even how we perceive ourselves,” Iris says.

“The red hair was 50 per cent of my character,” Carice says of her GOT role as Melisandre, the Red Priestess. “I felt so empowered, and in fact the dress – which is the opposite of Iris’s dresses – was really restricting, but it definitely helped me to build that character.”

Iris’ couture film, directed by Ryan McDaniels, references Dutch graphic art and at the same time mirrors the Iris spirit, which mixes high modernity with history. Iris has called upon her Dutch heritage not only by using Carice – but also by referencing Dutch artist Escher as an influence.

Iris began showing in Paris in 2007 and I watched her quickly move from Ready-to-Wear to Couture – which she unofficially calls “tech-couture” – where in her hands delicate embroideries and traditional techniques are “replaced by code”. The designer is even known for stating, “Tech just can’t keep up with me!”

Her extraordinary skill is in melding the soft and tough elements of the natural world with the forces of technology and innovation, merging art and science with craftsmanship and technology.

Using a diaphanous bloom of white silk organza, like fronds frozen in time, and delicate crystalline filaments that sprout from the centre, the “Transmotion” dress is a masterpiece of couture. Combining the futuristic with the naturalistic, “branches” of satin are laser cut, but hand stitched, to form central roots like mycorrhizal networks.

With her knowledge of fashion, her understanding of science and her skill in melding the two different characters, Iris’s work links to creation, growth and regeneration. Add to that the woman-power expressed by Carice in Iris’ film and in Game of Thrones, there is plenty to discover in this story about the film, the dress, the star and how all are close to Iris’s heart.

Produced by Natasha Cowan @tashonfash
Edited by Tim Thornton.
Music by @joergzuber.
Graphics by Paul Wallis.
Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.
To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes 
...find Suzy on Instagram & Twitter @suzymenkesvogue

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In episode nine of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by DURO OLOWU, the fashion designer who works at the crossroads of fashion, art and culture. The wonder of Duro Olowu is that he has developed himself as an art curator as well as a creative fashion artist. The two fit hand to glove. He is autonomously able to express himself artistically through his fashion creations, or through selecting art for museum exhibitions.

The remarkable Nigerian-born creator’s greatest skill is in the delicate, artistic mix of those joyous patterns. In his elegant embrace, the African influences come alongside hyper-sophisticated silks created for Parisian haute couture. Together they express the originality and the elegance of exceptional fashion work which is evident on the walls and rails of his London shop.

Duro’s instinctive love of fabrics stem from a childhood in Lagos with a Nigerian father and Jamaican mother. He is married to Thelma Golden, an American curator heading up a museum in Harlem, and his own deeply artistic connections are currently on show at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.

The female visitors to this exhibition opening in February 2020 were dressed almost entirely in a rainbow coalition of his designs, and his famous fashion clients - which he is too discreet to reveal - is headed by Michele Obama.

Produced by Natasha Cowan.
Edited by Tim Thornton.
Music by @joergzuber.
Graphics by Paul Wallis.
Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.
Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.
To find Suzy's articles visit https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes
...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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In episode seven of Creative Conversations, Suzy is joined by the philanthropist and supermodel, Natalia Vodianova.

Her story is a fairy tale – with a mighty dollop of reality and grit. Growing up in Russia, she helped her mother sell fruit in the market; looked after her sister, who has special needs; and hobbled through a childhood in which her family could not afford to buy new shoes for her growing feet.

Then, as in all the best stories, she became a model in her teens, married a British aristocrat, and was all set for her happy ever after.

It was during the terrible Beslan massacre, when terrorists seized a Russian school, when she had the realisation that her life – glamorous but empty – needed an opportunity to give back.

Her new path of philanthropy was born with the Naked Heart Foundation, which she established to build playgrounds and parks for abandoned, orphaned, disabled and special needs children across Russia and giving hope and support to despairing families.

Photographed by the world’s greatest talents and still in demand as a perennial supermodel, Natalia’s Fabulous Fund Fairs continue to support children in need, while other energetic projects include co-founding the Elbi app, for micro donations to a host of charities, and Flo – a women’s health platform.

Natalia met her fiancé, Antoine Arnault, on the set of a 2008 Louis Vuitton campaign. They plan to marry this summer, Coronavirus willing. She is looking after the kids’ role in the party, while Antoine is arranging the grown-up aspects.

And the wedding dress? Natalia confided in me the inspiration behind the design, but you will have to listen to this podcast to find out exactly what!

Produced by Natasha Cowan.
Edited by Tim Thornton.
Music by @joergzuber.
Graphics by Paul Wallis.
Production Assistance by Lauren Sweeting.
Support for the Creative Conversations podcast comes from the Condé Nast Luxury Conference.
To find Suzy's articles visit vogue.co.uk/fashion/suzy-menkes
...find Suzy on Instagram @suzymenkes and Twitter @thesuzymenkes

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