Blamo!

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Quality tailoring begins with quality materials. 

This week, Peter and Derek talk to Virgil Viret, the managing director of  Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers in Paris. Their shop is a destination spot for bespoke tailors, custom clothiers, and menswear aficionados worldwide, particularly since they have an amazing stockpile of vintage textiles. 

Peter and Derek talk to Virgil about the structure of the fabric trade, his family's involvement in this business, and how consumers can spot quality materials.

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Chase Pion and Quaid Walker are the founders of the watch marketplace app Bezel.

We chat about why buying a watch these days has been so hard, why they decided to launch Bezel, dealing with authentication, brands they?ve changed their opinion on, the perfect three watch collection, and watch auctions.

https://www.getbezel.com

We talk a lot about clothing on this show...I mean, Blamo! is a show about people wearing clothes. Sometimes, we?re trying to figure ourselves out through clothing, solving a problem with the world, flexing our design knowledge, or even all of the above.

But what about designing clothing that lasts 100 years or even for climates outside of Earth? Still there? Enter Vollebak.

My guest this week is Steve Tidball, of Vollebak, a brand he co-founded with his twin brother. They?re making clothes for the future right now.

Steve and I discuss what we need for the next 100 years, the changes that need to happen, whether WALL-E was right, enhanced organisms, trying to live forever, and how clothing is a part of all of it.

Vollebak

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There has been much discussion about the slow death of shopping in San Francisco?s downtown district. The decline has been years in the making, with Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Macy?s, and Nordstrom, all heading elsewhere or shutting down entirely in the area. Why?

Peter and Derek discuss what would bring people back to a brick-and-mortar experience in shopping and what they would like to see themselves.

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My guest this week is Albert Muzquiz.

You might know him as Edgy Albert or the guy in your feed telling you what pants to wear. He's the real dude, and I'm glad he is here.

Albert and I chat about how he became the "Jean Daddy" of the internet, visiting Levi's Archive, his acting career, sick French knives, and LBJ the play.

Albert on TikTok

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It's Jeremy Kirkland, Jian DeLeon, and Jon Moy. The Three Musketeers return with a fresh new episode of hot takes galore.

We chat about Jian's insane pickup in Tokyo, Jon getting nuts at 18east, Jeremy thinking malls will return. (wtf?), the Mount Rushmore of t-shirt collections, dope new tunes, and the spring summer wardrobe transition.

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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Surprise, we have a special episode discussing quite possibly one of my favorite watches of all time. Look, if you?re new here, I?m a SeikoBoi, a Seiko Fan (and btw you can be too!) I have been collecting and obsessing over Seikos forever. It?s how I got into watches ? and the golden goose, the holy grail; whatever expression you want is the Seiko 62MAS or what many people know as the classic Seiko diver. 

Seiko recently launched a new version of the 62mas which is almost an identical re-issue of the classic 6217, the SJE093.

Naturally, I enlisted the help of Rob Caplan and Zachary Piña from Topper to help me understand this watch, unpack its origins, and learn more about why this little dive watch has every collector going nuts.

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Learn more here

Listen to Burlingame & Park chat the 62MAS Reissue with Erik Strickland

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When bespoke shoemaker Seiji McCarthy chatted with Peter and Derek last year, he mentioned that he thinks it's much easier to make a living as a craftsperson in Tokyo because of the availability of cheap real estate. 

So when Joe McReynolds, co-author of the new book Emergent Tokyo: Designing the Spontaneous City, reached out to see if Peter and Derek wanted to chat about urban policy, they jumped at the chance. 

What makes Tokyo such a particularly good breeding ground for bespoke crafts? McReynolds suggests it's about more than culture?it's also about how we build cities.

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My guests this week are The Lemon Twigs (Brian and Michael D'Addario).

The singer-songwriter virtuoso brothers who are also some of the most stylish folks in music.

The boys join us to chat about songwriting, clothes, analog recording, their Jimmy Fallon performance, Tim Heidecker's Office Hours, the best videos on YouTube, Art Garfunkel, Elton John's phone calls, and their new album, A Dream Is All We Know.

My Golden Years on Jimmy Fallon

Pre-Order A Dream is All We Know

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My guest this week is writer Emily Yoshida.

Emily is one of my favorite people in the entertainment industry. She was previously a writer for Vulture and New York magazine and joins us to chat about the new series, SHOGUN (a show she's also a writer on), eBay finds, getting into Grand Seiko, and more!

SHOGUN Podcast

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Nina Penlington is the head cutter at Edward Sexton. She carries forward one of the greatest tailoring legacies of our generation.

The late Edward Sexton was the technical mind behind Nutters of Savile Row. In the 1960's Edward and Tommy Nutter revitalized the Row with their glamorous suits and welcoming shop front. They dressed rock and roll legends such as Mick Jagger, Elton John, and most Beatles members. 

The cut was unapologetic and romantic. Edward and Tommy made full-bodied coats with square shoulders, nipped waists, and lapels so wide that they almost grazed the wearer's shoulders. Sexton liked to call his cut "long and leafy."

Sadly, Edward passed away in the summer of '23, and Nina, who previously worked under him, has taken his place as the firm's head cutter. She has almost 20 years of experience as a cutter, having worked at Dege & Skinner and Gieves & Hawks, which gives her a solid foundation for carrying forward Edward's strong and angular cut.

Derek and Peter discuss what it was like working with Edward, how to make bespoke suits for women, and a controversial tailoring topic called "straightening & crookening."

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My guest this week is photographer Hunter Abrams.

Hunter and I chat about their career in photography, body positivity, NYU, that Met Ball dress, why Willie Norris is one of the greatest designers, White House invites, comics, and what?s next.

Follow Hunter on Instagram

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Derek and Peter chat about the recent men?s fashion shows in Milan, Paris, and Pitti and dig through what they?re vibing with. It's all in there, from trench coats to Todd Snyder?s Pitti Debut.

Last but not least, on "Hey, Nice Pants!" they both share what has been inspiring them and what they're into this week. 

All good things! Dig in!

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My guest this week is American singer and songwriter Jason Isbell.

Jason is a 6x Grammy award-winning musician and happens to love clothes as much as the rest of us.

We chat wearing cool hats in the carpool line, listening to music with his daughter, loving Randy Newman, playing in front of Paul McCartney, fast fashion, wearing Rick Owens with the fam, and Dumble amps.

Catch Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit on tour now

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My guest this week is the artist Alynda Segarra of Hurray for The Riff Raff.

Alynda and I chat about their new album, The Past is Still Alive, getting fits off on the road, too many voice notes, entering the tailored era, Fran Lebowitz, Andre 3000 and vibe music, leaning on stress, oversized western wear, good smelling candles, and The Clash.

Listen to Hurray for The Riff Raff here 

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Discussions about sustainability often focus on the production end, probing questions such as how things are made and which materials are used. But a big part of this story is how consumers discard stuff they no longer enjoy using. In this episode, Peter and Derek borrow Jonathan Chapman's term "emotional durability" to talk about how we may be able to find clothes that make us as excited in ten years as they do today.

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My guest this week is Christopher Gove, founder of Percival.

Christopher and I chat about their recent popup in NYC, getting basics right, fake hardcore fans, the influencer world, spicy takes, getting fits off in the pickup line, commercial vs creative, and the multi-year plan.

Percival 

Follow Christopher on Instagram

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We?re back with some listener feedback; Jian shares his thoughts on Milan and Paris, and we talk about the recent men?s shows, Pharrell Vuitton, fit interventions, True Detective, and late-night snacks.

ITS ALL IN THERE! 

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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If you're still in that "New year, I'm going to educate myself" moment. I can't think of any other episode as crucial as this one.

Mr. G. Bruce Boyer.

Bruce is an authority on classic menswear and men's fashion; he was an editor at Town & Country and Esquire and has written about clothing and menswear for over 40 years. From Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Duke of Windsor, Bruce is the source.

One other thing I want to mention, as you listen to this, Bruce is just the most genuine real deal guy. He's no bullshit. Yeah, he knows about cloth weight and all that stuff, but he also understands that at the end of the day, what matters is how you feel. I genuinely love this guy and am privileged to call him a friend.

We recorded this a few years ago, but I relistened to it and was like, dang. It's all bangers.

This episode was previously recorded in 2018

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My favorite book of his - True Style: The History and Principles of Classic Menswear

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With a new year ahead, Peter and Derek discuss how you may be able to expand your wardrobe this year to include more casual attire. They also take readers' questions. How does someone find a good local tailor near them? What should someone wear if they work in the manual trades? Which pair of shoes works well in both semi-casual and formal settings? Tune in.

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This week's guest is writer, podcaster (and recent watch addict) Jesse David Fox.

Jesse and I discuss his recent book Comedy Book: How Comedy Conquered Culture?and the Magic That Makes It Work (One of NPR?s Best Books of 2023), imposter syndrome, Seth Meyers, Todd Snyder suits, getting fits off on interviews, and becoming a watch guy.

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Jeremy, Jian, and Jon revisit ?23 and discuss best/worst purchases, how we get dressed, Jeremy hates all his clothes again, 20 years of Thom Browne, what went wrong, what went right, watching movies on TikTok, trend reports, SNL, buying cars, and holiday hijinx.

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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My guest this week is Christopher Bastin, Creative Director of GANT

Chris and I chat about what he?s been up to the past few years, making clothes in America again, the Taylor Swift bump, music, and his never-ending love for vintage.

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Do certain forms of taste demonstrate more intelligence than others? 

Eugene Rabkin recently used the phrase "intelligence of taste" in a StyleZeitgeist op-ed. Derek and Peter talk about how judgments of taste are often sociological and loaded with cultural biases. At the same time, there is such a thing as being more thoughtful about what you choose to wear, which prevents us from falling into pure relativism.

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The clowns have returned from the circus...

Jeremy, Jian, and Jon are back talking big coats, Jian living on a plane, Jon is not allowed to go to Costco alone, silly breakfasts, holiday lists, gift guides, and Supreme bricks.

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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When most of us see a "made in USA" label, we assume the workers were treated well. Or, at least, according to our nation's labor laws. In fact, many garment workers in this country are paid as little as $50 a day to work 12-hour shifts.

Derek and Peter discuss how this is possible and how a new federal bill called The Fabric Act can help empower workers.

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My guest this week is musician and producer Mayer Hawthorne.

Mayer and I chat, smiling while singing, making custom silk robes, his new LP, why band merch sucks, stylish grandmas, Japanese tailoring, big pants, no jeans, stuck in the 70s, and not wearing clothes from eras you lived through.

Mayer Hawthorne

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My guest this week is musician and comedian Dave Hill.

Dave and I discuss his love and collection of hockey jerseys, getting fits off in neckerchiefs, shredding on the guitar, touring with Tenacious D, and his new book, The Awesome Game.

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Derek and Peter and chat with bespoke shoemaker Seiji McCarthy.

Seiji McCarthy, an American bespoke shoemaker based in Tokyo, carved an unconventional path into the world of bespoke shoemaking after a career in the NBA. He makes some of the most unique shoes in the world. His shoes combine the conservative styling of traditional American footwear with the craftsmanship of Japanese bespoke shoemaking (think: upgraded Alden). We spoke with him about his work as a bespoke shoemaker, his take on American style, and why Japan has so many artisans.

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My guest this week is Jack Tatum of Wild Nothing.

Jack and I discuss his new album Hold, how parenthood has changed his music, moving to the suburbs and loving it, getting fits off on tour, the creative process, and what he?s doing in VA.

Wild Nothing on Spotify

Wild Nothing on Instagram

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My guest this week is Erik Allen Ford, co-founder and CEO of Buck Mason.

Erik and I discuss his life growing up in rural Missouri, denim in the early ?00s, American manufacturing, moving back to the midwest, and building what you want to wear yourself.

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It's Die, Workwear!

Fred Nieddu of taillour; joins Derek and Peter for a chat of all things tailoring.

Fred is a London-based bespoke tailor who does a lot of work for films and TV shows, including the menswear tailoring for The Crown on Netflix - we chat with him about the technical aspects of making clothes for different bodies, as well as how to find a good tailor and last but not least he answers some listener questions.
 

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My guest this week is comedian Jay Jurden.

Jay and I discuss Coach Prime and fashion in football, why he loves Tyler the Creator, bad fits for comedy specials, too many pairs of 990s, Jimmy Fallon, brands he?s into, and his current stand-up tour.

JayJurden.com

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My guest this week is musician Zach Condon of Beirut.

Zach and I discuss recording his new LP Hadsel in Norway, falling in love with country music, dealing with burnout, getting into sci-fi, upcoming live shows, and becoming an accidental fit God.

Beirut site

Beirut Instagram

Hadsel is out Nov. 10th 2023

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It's Die, Workwear!

As temperatures drop, Derek & Peter discuss the beauty of camel hair coats, Derek's recent article from MR PORTER with examples and tips from Ethan Newton, Tony Sylvester, & David DeMarte, and chat about what they're excited about this fall.
 

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My guest this week is Henrik Berg of MORJAS ? a brand becoming the new standard for classic footwear.

Henrik and I chat about the brand's origins, dig into the philosophy of luxury brands, and discuss our love of scents and how they're approaching physical retail.

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My guest this week is Ian Devaney and Aidan Noell of Nation of Language.

With their wild shows and big fits, the Brooklyn synth-pop band has had folks losing it since their debut.

We chat about their new album Strange Disciple, getting emo on stage, riffing on the best audio gear, what they are listening to, loving Studio Ghibli, and lyrics vs music.

Sightseer Music Video

Nation of Language on Instagram

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We?re back with a new serving of the JJJ Show.

This week, we discuss wide(er) leg pants, debate if Costco is the greatest retail experience ever, or where you need to go when you realize you need good retail.

Jeremy, Jian, and Jon debate with hot takes galore on the best retail experiences. Jeremy talks about bad candy when playing Call of Duty, Moy buys Kirkland tee packs, and Jian drops the JP knowledge. It?s all in there.

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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My guest this week is photographer and designer Keith Henry.

Keith and I discuss his life growing up in Canada, skateboarding and photography, being into hardcore like everyone else, and how he went from driving trucks to making some of the best jeans on the planet.

We also discuss pattern making, taking apart dickies, and why he still makes his own clothes.

Henry's Instagram

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Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo have been talking about doing a show for years, so we're bringing it under the Blamo! umbrella. 

In this inaugural episode of the new Die, Workwear! podcast, we talk about things we're excited to wear for fall and answer some Twitter questions.

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My guest this week is designer Benjamin Edgar.

Benjamin and I discuss life in Chicago, starting his career at 17, falling in love with art and the library, co-founding The Brilliance, Boxed Water, creating An Object Company, the infamous cigarette holder, and his relationship with the late Virgil Abloh.

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My guest this week is musician and producer Jarvis Taveniere.

Jarvis plays in the band Woods and has worked on some of your favorite records (Fleet Foxes, Whitney, Real Estate).

Jarvis and I discuss the new Woods album, Perennial, Brooklyn indie rock, the albums he goes back to, getting into watches (or not), tour fits, and some of our favorite Beatles songs.

Woods on Spotify

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My guest this week is actor Gillian Jacobs.

Gillian and I discuss how science and her love of nature has been a part of her life since the beginning, from dinosaur birthday parties to roaming museums. We chat about living in NY in the early 2000s, her massive vintage collection, the clothes her grandma made for her, how her style has evolved, Thom Browne, and her favorite designers. 

Gillian Jacobs on Instagram

Periodic Talks Podcast 

Gillian Jacobs 99% Invisible

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The Three Amigos, Three Musketeers, Three Stooges, what do you want? It?s the JJJ Show!

Jeremy, Jian, and Jon trade Jerry Lauren Stories, Jian accidentally flexes with his global Polo Bar tour, the crew talks Peter Do?s Helmut Lang debut, debate whether or not fashion shows should happen, get a bit too existential, discuss Rick Owens fits from the Slack, fly high with Carharrt Sacai, and Do the Dew head to toe.

Jian?s new - Mule Boyz Podcast

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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My guest this week is Elizabeth Giardina, Creative Director of Another Tomorrow.

Elizabeth and I discuss her philosophy on clothing design, the appeal of the uniform, her early career at Halston, Derek Lam, and  Proenza Schouler, why she doesn?t feel the need to compete with European fashion houses, her love of sneakers, and how she?s evolving Another Tomorrow.

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My guess this week is writer and TV producer Nick Weidenfeld.

Nick has helped develop and produce many of your favorite shows, from Rick and Morty, Robot Chicken, The Boondocks, Children?s Hospital, Desus & Mero, Neo Yokio, Ten Year Old Tom, and many more.

Nick and I discuss his life and career, working at Adult Swim, imposter syndrome, giving good feedback, his love of Faulkner, the appeal of animation, the greatest cartoons of all time, getting fits off, design with constraints, and what show is the closest to his personal sense of humor.

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My guest this week is journalist, Taylor Lorenz

Taylor is a columnist at The Washington Post covering technology and online culture and was previously at the New York Times. She?s the queen of memes, internet culture and also loves menswear!

Taylor and I discuss her love of horror movies, menswear, humor, and the evolution of the internet and social media. We also discuss her new book Extremely Online: The Untold Story of Fame, Influence, and Power on the Internet.

Preorder Extremely Online

Article Referenced

Mary HK Choi - All Dudes Learned How to Dress and it Sucks

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Jeremy, Jian, and Jon talk about new fall lookbooks from J. Crew, Noah, and all the big fit pics dropping. Jian goes wild with the analogies as usual, Moy drops some earth shattering takes, and they all get nostalgic for ?rich malls.?

Last but not least we talk, about old fit pics, old cars, what still slaps, and dressing for yourself.

Smile and get dressed, folks!

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Jian DeLeon
Jon Moy
Jeremy Kirkland

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We got a big ol bonus episode this week with everyones favorite Matt Hranek of WM Brown

We chat when and not to wear a suit, his new collaboration with Sunspel, figuring out your fits in the sweltering summer, how to wear a BLACK polo, how to pack for a summer trip, and what NOT to do when making a collab.

Last but not least, we debate what summer styles will last

Check out the Sunspel x WM Brown Polo here

My guest this week is Kyle Ng, cofounder and creative director of Brain Dead.

Kyle and I chat about his life growing up in the Bay Area, getting into clothes, Japanese outdoor, the draw of vintage, the no-hate lifestyle, rock climbing, Braindead University, the movies he loves, and the new gear they?re about to release!

Brain Dead on Instagram

Kyle Ng (Instagram)

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