The Duffel Shuffle Podcast

Yosemite Valley legend Tommy Caldwell joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 18 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Tommy talks about this season in Yosemite Valley, and why moving his family to South Lake Tahoe has changed how he's able to climb in the valley. He also talks about his recent film, The Devil's Climb, which covers his recent trip to climb the Devils Thumb in Alaska with Alex Honnold. Tommy admits that his true passion in climbing is the sufferfest expeditions, but really he just loves climbing regardless of what it entails. 

Follow Tommy on Instagram @tommycaldwell, and check out The Devil's Climb. 

Sam and Adrian catch up on their plans for winter, and what schedules look like as they head into winter. After the break, the two reflect on the podcast to-date, and share some exciting updates for future episodes. Moving forward, episodes will launch Wednesday's and be available in the early morning hours. Starting with episode 18, an editor will give The Duffel Shuffle a fresh sound, and future guests like Tommy Caldwell, Michelle Parker and Nick Russel will be joining in.

The Duffel Shuffle wants to hear from you! Complete our survey and enter to win a custom Alpenglow Expeditions jacket from Black Diamond! Survey is live until Dec. 13. 

Sam and Adrian follow up on their conversation started in Episode 15. After discussion high altitude climbing and acclimatization, the two dive into a conversation about pre-acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and the program that Alpenglow Expeditions has established in Rapid Ascent. The program utilizes pre-acclimatization alongside advanced trip logistics to reduce the total expedition time by 25-50%. 

After discussing the three Piolets d'Or winners, and 60 finalists, Sam and Adrian jump into the complicated topic of high altitude climbing. The two share stories of their early experiences with altitude and talk about the basics of acclimatization and what a typical schedule might look at. Finally, they dive into the "aids" that are used for altitude climbing, from Diamox and Dexamethasone to Oxygen. A future episode will discuss the topic of Pre-Acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and what the Rapid Ascent system that Adrian has pioneered looks like.

Adrian and Sam chat about what it means to be a mountain guide. From introducing the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) to discussing the decades of guides who came before the AMGA path was the standard, this episode is a great starting point for those curious about the training and business side of the  guiding industry.

**This episode was edited following it's initial publication to address some misinformation**

In Episode 13, Adrian and Sam sit down with David Morton. Dave is a freelance climbing and expedition guide, photographer/videographer, filmmaker, speaker-presenter, and founder of The Juniper Fund. In this episode, Dave talks about his life as a mountain guide on the worlds tallest peaks, including 10 Mt Everest Expeditions. He also shares information on his foundation, The Juniper Fund, which supports and empowers families and communities impacted by the loss of Himalayan high-altitude workers. Join us for our conversation with Dave. 

Sam and Adrian sit down with Cody Townsend. The three discuss Cody's transition to the world of ski mountaineering, and his 50 Project which has taken the world of backcountry skiing by storm. With only 4 lines remaining, Cody discusses his progress and his attempts this past spring on University Peak and Mount St. Elias. Cody also shares his newest project, The 50 Plus, which will debut in October.

Sam and Adrian sit down with Zoe and Kelby of The Adventure Addicts. These two have built a career as influencers, and they share a bit about their path, their jobs and their passions. The episode dives into the significant role influencers play in the outdoor industry, and the importance of remaining authentic. Their channel, @the_adventureaddicts on Instagram, has amassed nearly 500,000 followers, including a loyal 10 who just joined Zoe and Kelby on an Alpenglow Expeditions trip to Ecuador.

Alex Honnold makes a special appearance on The Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Sam and Adrian chat with Alex about his motivations in climbing, why he's decided high altitude climbing isn't for him, and what his future goals are, now that he's a father to two. 

This interview was originally recorded in April 2024, but due to technical difficulties, its release was delayed.

Emily Harrington joins Sam and Adrian to talk all things Olympics. Emily, who herself participated in an exhibition event in 2006 at the Winter Olympics, has followed the growth and expansion of competition climbing for more than 2 decades. From the early days of the World Cup circuit in which Emily competed to the addition of climbing in the Olympics in which Emily has followed as a fan, competition climbing is exploding in popularity. Emily's perspectives as at athlete provide invaluable insight into the sport. 

Cory Richards joins Sam and Adrian on this episode of The Duffel Shuffle. After publishing his memoir, The Color of Everything, Cory talks about his fond memories of exploring the worlds tallest mountains, his ongoing struggles with BiPolar 2 and mental health, and what he’s up to today to feed his soul. 

To check out Cory’s new book, visit a local bookstore, or order it online here. 

Sam and Adrian are joined by author Will Cockrell to discuss his new book titled "Everest Inc." Will, who has covered the Mt Everest climbing season as a journalist for nearly 2 decades, chronicles the development of an industry that, each spring, becomes a focal point of the outdoor media.

Everest Inc.: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World

Featuring original interviews with mountain guides and climbers—including Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker—this vivid and authoritative adventure history chronicles one of the least likely industries on guided climbing on Mount Everest.

Anyone who has read Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air or has seen a recent photo of climbers standing in line to get to the top of Everest may think they have the mountain pretty well figured out. It’s an extreme landscape where bad weather and incredible altitude can occasionally kill, but more so an overcrowded, trashed-out recreation destination where rich clients pad their egos—and social media feeds—while exploiting local Sherpas.

There’s some truth to these clichés, but they’re a sliver of the story. Unlike any book to date, Everest, Inc. gets to the heart of the mountain through the definitive story of its greatest the Himalayan guiding industry. It all began in the 1980s with a few boot-strapping entrepreneurs who paired raw courage and naked ambition with a new style of expedition planning. Many of them are still living and climbing today, and as a result of their astonishing success, ninety percent of the people now on Everest are clients or employees of guided expeditions.

Studded with quotes from original interviews with more than a hundred western and Sherpa climbers, clients, writers, filmmakers, and even a Hollywood actor, Everest, Inc. foregrounds the voices of the people who have made the mountain what it is today. And while there is plenty of high-altitude drama in unpacking the last forty years of Everest tragedy and triumph, it ultimately transcends stereotypes and tells the uplifting counternarrative of the army of journeymen and women who have made people’s dreams come true, and of the Nepalis who are pushing the industry into the future.

Professional ski mountaineer Jim Morrison joins Sam and Adrian for Episode 6. The three talk about Jim's recent exploits in the Karakoram: a successful descent of the Great Trango Tower after he was unsuccessful the year prior. Jim talks about enduring some of life's lowest lows and highest highs, and consistently coming back to the joy he experiences from any adventure, near or far. 

After full team success on Mt. Everest for the Alpenglow Expeditions crew, Adrian and Sam connect in person to recap the season. After a bit of background on happenings of the South Side, the two dive into the Alpenglow team's experience on the North Side, including the great fortune they had with regard to crowds as well as challenges created by their timeline and weather. 

Episode 4 comes to you straight from Everest Base Camp! Sam and Adrian catch up and discuss what has been 4-years in the making: Alpenglow Expeditions' return to the north side of Mt. Everest since the closure as a result of the COVID-19 Pandemic. After hearing about changes on the mountain, and the current state of the Everest season, the two dive into Adrian's history on the mountain, his thoughts about the state of guiding it, and how he has made the tallest mountain in the world such a big part of his career. 

In Episode 3 of The Duffel Shuffle, Adrian and Sam sit down with ski mountaineer Caroline Gleich. The start off talking about one of Caroline's most notable accomplishments, becoming the fourth person and first woman to ski all lines in Andrew McLean's book, The Chuting Gallery. Following this accomplishment, Caroline set her sights on the greater ranges. With Everest as a goal, Caroline gained experience at altitude in places like Ecuador and Peru, before ultimately finding success on the tallest mountain in the world. Finally, Caroline talks about her current climb, running for a Senate seat in Utah. Follow her campaign and support at www.carolineforutah.com.

In Episode 2 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Adrian sit's down with Ecuadorian Mountain Guide, and Black Diamond athlete, Topo Mena. Topo talks about his start in climbing, his mentor Iván Vallejo, and a recent accident paragliding. After Topo's accident, he's been forced to adjust his perspective on life, and the love he has for the mountains. 

Sam and Adrian kick off Episode 1 with some current news, discussing a recent tragedy in the Alps and how light and fast ski touring may have played a roll, as well as beginning to cover the upcoming Everest season, which is headlined by the re-opening of the North Side of the Mountain. 

Following the news, the Duffel Shuffle Podcast welcomes its first guest, Emily Harrington. Emily is known for her technical rock climbing prowess, but her accomplishments span much farther. From summiting and skiing 8,000m peaks to new routes, big walls, and more, Emily is truly one of the leading mountain athletes.

Welcome to the Duffel Shuffle Podcast!