The Straight Stitch: A Podcast About Sewing and Other Fiber Arts.

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As a knitter, I was enchanted by the process of making knitted fabric—so much so that I often took a long time to complete a project. I would get sidetracked exploring different techniques. As a sewist, I’m exactly the opposite. Thrilled by the prospect of whipping out a piece of clothing in an afternoon, I am more about the product than the process. What’s your maker personality type? Are you a process person, a product person, or a combination of the two? How can you shift your focus in one direction or the other? Let’s talk about it. 

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Bad habits can get in the way of pleasurable sewing and lead to less-than-perfect results or even damage to our machines. In this episode, we’ll talk about the bad sewing habits that we should strive to remove from our sewing practice, such as sewing over pins, not changing the needle regularly, and more. What are the bad sewing habits that you’d like to eliminate?

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Singer is, arguably, the most recognized brand in the world of sewing. In today’s episode, we look at the man who bore that name—Isaac Merritt Singer—and how he came to be such an influence in the development of the sewing machine that we know today. Did you know that he fathered some two dozen children? Or that his first love wasn’t invention, but acting? Listen and learn more!

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We sometimes forget that leather is a textile, and a wonderful material with which to create beautiful and functional items. Today's guest, Lisa Sorrell, of Sorrell Custom Boots in Guthrie, Oklahoma, has taken leatherwork to the next level with her designs. Lisa began making boots in 1996, custom fit and handcrafted for each client. Lisa’s work has been featured in several books, numerous magazines, and the PBS series “Craft in America.” She is the recipient of numerous awards and the author of the book, "The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay," published in 2015.  In this episode, Lisa talks about her journey to becoming a custom bookmaker and what needs to be done to save and pass on these specialized skills to future generations. 

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Today's guest, JoJo Beazel, saw the opportunity for a new business during the pandemic and took it. What started as a fascination with sewing machines in general morphed into a love of industrial sewing machines, and from there, into a thriving business refurbishing these old workhorses.  Seams Perfect Industrial and Vintage Sewing Machines in Fresno, CA, specializes in the restoration of industrial and commercial sewing machines. JoJo has a deep and abiding appreciation for these machines for their functionality as well as their artistic design. Join me for a conversation with JoJo about some of the machines that have graced the Seams Perfect workbench and how they have been restored to a useful life. 

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Whitney Luckenbill is on a mission to empower sewists to make garments to fit their unique shapes. Her YouTube channel, TomKat Stitchery, features a wealth of information on color, style, fabrics, wardrobe planning, patterns, and more. I was fortunate enough to meet Whitney in person at Sew Expo in Puyallup, WA, in February. She is as much of a dynamo in real life as she is on her channel, and we made plans to sit down a few weeks later for an extended chat. Hear about Whitney’s journey from financial analyst to mother of twins to YouTube content creator. Whitney has also launched a series of online classes on fitting and other topics. If you do any garment sewing, Whitney will help you level it up!

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Social media is a two-edged sword. Negativity is everywhere, but the bright spots are waiting to be discovered. Today’s guest is Tiffany Scherschel, whose YouTube channel Hoosier Handmade is one of my favorite follows. Tiffany loves to sew garments, and she brings a positive, can-do attitude to every project. She also understands the importance of community and works hard to make all of her viewers feel like they are part of hers. I look forward to her twice-weekly videos—on Tuesdays and Fridays—and getting to sit down and chat with her in person was like having a cup of tea with a dear friend. 

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In this week’s episode, we take a road trip to the Butte-Silver Bow Public Archives in Butte, Montana. The Archives currently features an exhibit of vintage sewing machines from the collection of Virgil “Sarge” Sargent. The machines—from a late 1800s Willcox and Gibbs chainstitch machine all the way up to a 1960s Singer Rocketeer—detail the importance of sewing in this iconic western town, accompanied by a wealth of accessories, quilts, and vintage clothing from area collectors. Janet sat down for a lively conversation with the three organizers of the exhibit: Laura Sargent (Sarge’s widow), Leslie Doyle, and Rose Brock. Come along as we explore the history of sewing in the wild west. 

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My guest today is Alex Jackson, owner and designer at H Clothing Company in Colorado. After graduating with degrees in business and wanting to start his own company with a sustainability focus, Alex settled on clothing manufacturing. A self-taught sewist, designer, and natural dyer, Alex creates the kind of clothing he wants to wear using hemp fabrics. Hemp is enjoying a resurgence as a useful natural fiber and requires far fewer chemical pesticides and herbicides than cotton. I know you’ll find Alex’s commitment to his vision as inspiring as I do. 

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I took up quilting around 2010, after many years of being a professional knitting designer. For some reason, I was very drawn to scrap quilts, and they remain my favorites kinds to make. I am fascinated by the interplay of random bits of fabric. Join me for a discussion of my favorite books and patterns and get a few tips for making some scrap quilts of your own. 

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How much do you think about the thread you use in your machine? Do you like to experiment with different kinds, or do you find one you like and stick to it? In today's podcast, we're going to explore the many kinds of threads currently available to sewists.  Learn about the structure, fiber content, and how choosing a thread can make or break your project. 

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Today's episode covers a variety of topics—the Joann Fabrics bankruptcy filing, a student issue that arose at Sew Expo 2024, respectful fitting techniques, and some listener questions about printing PDF files and systems for organizing sewing projects in progress. Feedback, comments, and questions always welcome!

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The current economic environment is challenging for small businesses. On today's episode, Janet visits with Kate McIvor, owner of The Confident Stitch in Missoula, Montana, to hear about her business philosophy and what makes for a successful fabric store. The Confident Stitch offers both modern quilt fabrics and apparel fabrics in a lovely, downtown Missoula brick-and-mortar store, but also has a thriving online presence and several subscription services for customers. Kate will introduce us to We Quilt This City and gar{Meant} For You and talk about the joys and challenges of living out her life's dream. 

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Who doesn't love a good bag? Making bags on a sewing machine is a fulfilling and creative process that combines both functionality and artistry. Let your personality shine through your choice of material—canvas, leather, or vinyl—and add finishing touches in the form of decorative threads and other trims.  The sense of accomplishment that comes with completing a handmade bag is a testament to the fusion of skill, creativity, and craftsmanship. In this episode, we'll go over the basics of bagmaking. (Hint: Many patterns can be made on a domestic sewing machine!) Find out who ranks at the top of Janet's list of favorite bag designers. Get a head start on choosing materials and thread. And be prepared to fall in love with making bags. 

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The 2024 Sewing and Stitchery Expo is in the books. This huge event is held at the Washington State Fairgrounds every March and is hosted by Washington State University. Come along for a recap of Janet's classes, an overview of the show, and some thoughts about the current state of the needlework industry. 

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A big part of successful sewing, especially when making garments, is making good fabric choices. In this and upcoming "Fabrication" episodes, Janet will discuss different kinds of fabrics, how they are constructed, their characteristics, and techniques for sewing with them. This episode continues the discussion of knit fabrics started in Episode 21, focusing on sweater knits, sweatshirt fabrics, athletic knits, fleece/minky, and a few others. 

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Enjoy an entertaining visit with Kira Hartley, author of the book Fabric Wars: The Hunt for Vintage Fabric with Etsy's DodOddity. Kira is a battle-scarred veteran of auction and estate sales in the midwest, where she competes to acquire vintage fabrics and notions to sell to her devoted customers. She details her adventures —along with colorful caricatures of her competitors—in her book, with a second volume soon to follow. Hear from Kira as she talks about how she got started and and turned a fun activity into a thriving business. 

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A big part of successful sewing, especially when making garments, is making good fabric choices. In this and upcoming "Fabrication" episodes, Janet will discuss different kinds of fabrics, how they are constructed, their characteristics, and techniques for sewing with them. This episode focuses on knits, specifically jersey, rib knits, and interlock or doubleknits. (The world of knits is too big to cover in a single episode!) Learn why knits are different from wovens and when you would want to choose a ponte instead of a jersey. Become an educated consumer and make your fabric choices with confidence!

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This episode was inspired by an article by Jenni Grover entitled “3 Steps to Let Go of Guilt About Quilting.” Has guilt about your hobbies ever robbed you of the joy of creating? Let’s talk about why that happens and what we can do about it. 

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Today’s podcast guest is John Willis of Special Operations Equipment in Camden, TN. Some of you may remember that I went to Tennessee twice in 2023: in April, to attend Nicole Sauce’s Living Free in Tennessee Spring Workshop, and again in October, to attend and present at the Self-Reliance Festival. SRF is held at Special Operations Equipment. When not being used to host events, SOE is a sewing factory making high-end tactical gear. 

John and Amanda Willis are amazing people, and John graciously spent two hours last week visiting with me. The story of Special Operations Equipment is fascinating and one that I thought podcast listeners would enjoy hearing. And John is a great storyteller. 

Because our Zoom visit lasted longer than usual, I’ve posted two versions of this week’s episode. The “short” version is about the length of a regular podcast episode and covers the sewing part of our conversation. The “extended play” version includes the entire discussion and gets into more of John’s personal experiences and observations about life. There was so much wisdom in that part of the conversation that I felt it needed to be shared even if it veered off the topic of sewing a bit. Note that the EP version is marked “explicit” for some language, but we’re all adults and I expect people to make the appropriate choice for themselves. 

The two episodes are identical save for the length, so if you choose the EP version, you'll also hear what is in the shorter version. 

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Today’s podcast guest is John Willis of Special Operations Equipment in Camden, TN. Some of you may remember that I went to Tennessee twice in 2023: in April, to attend Nicole Sauce’s Living Free in Tennessee Spring Workshop, and again in October, to attend and present at the Self-Reliance Festival. SRF is held at Special Operations Equipment. When not being used to host events, SOE is a sewing factory making high-end tactical gear. 

John and Amanda Willis are amazing people, and John graciously spent two hours last week visiting with me. The story of Special Operations Equipment is fascinating and one that I thought podcast listeners would enjoy hearing. And John is a great storyteller. 

Because our Zoom visit lasted longer than usual, I’ve posted two versions of this week’s episode. The “short” version is about the length of a regular podcast episode and covers the sewing part of our conversation. The “extended play” version includes the entire discussion and gets into more of John’s personal experiences and observations about life. There was so much wisdom in that part of the conversation that I felt it needed to be shared even if it veered off the topic of sewing a bit. Note that the EP version is marked “explicit” for some language, but we’re all adults and I expect people to make the appropriate choice for themselves. 

The two episodes are identical save for the length, so if you choose the EP version, you'll also hear what is in the shorter version. 

Send us feedback about this episode!

Join me for a conversation with Melanie Knight, owner of Starry Knight Design in Corvallis, MT. Melanie talks about how a simple pair of baby shoes inspired her to start a business using with just a small sewing machine and some leather scraps. That kitchen-table business grew to one that now employs several women and helps  support Melanie's family.  

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The Stitchery and Sewing Expo—fondly known as Sew Expo—is celebrating 40 years this year! This annual event is produced by Washington State University and held at the Washington State Fairgrounds in Puyallup, WA, near Tacoma. This year’s event is scheduled for February 29th to March 3rd. 

My guests today are Jenn Geise, Education Manager, and Brittany Labbe, Show Manager. We’ll talk about the history of the show, the classes—class offerings are changing a bit this year in response to attendee feedback—and other fun events that are offered as part of Expo. This event draws attendees from all over the country and is a great way to expand your sewing skills in a dynamic setting. My friend Tera and I attended Sew Expo for the first time last year and had a blast! We indulged ourselves in four days of learning, shopping, and socializing. This year, I’ll be back as a teacher. 

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The humble sewing machine needle—such a small part of the process and yet, such a huge part of the process. Gone are the days when the choices were red band needles for wovens and yellow band needles for knits. Today's sewists have a plethora of choices, from needles for quilting to those best for cosplay and embroidery. We'll explore all there is to know about sewing machine needles. Learn about shanks, eyes, and scarfs (scarves?). Find out how often you should change your needle. Become confident in your needle choices and set your next sewing project up for success!

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The start of a new year is a great time to set some goals and review planning and organizational systems. We’ll talk about what goals Janet sets and why—it’s not as many as you might think—and ways to keep track of all those WIPs and UFOs. Janet also talks about making the Nathalie cowl neck sweatshirt by Jalie Patterns and sewing up a generator cover for her husband’s construction equipment.  

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My guest today is Kerry Brown, founder and owner of Strong Roots Resources in Tennessee. I first met Kerry at the Living Free in Tennessee Spring Workshop last April. While we were relaxing and visiting before dinner one evening, Kerry shared with me the story of Nan, his grandmother, teaching him to sew as a young boy. We reconnected at the Self-Reliance Festival in Camden, Tennessee in October and I asked Kerry if he would like to share his memories of Nan on the podcast. Enjoy!

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Are you feeling stressed out by the holiday season? Have you turned a hobby into a business and are wondering how to reclaim your sanity? Do you need help setting boundaries? Janet talks about maintaining balance between real life and your crafting/sewing life and offers some ideas that have worked for her. (Full disclosure:  She needs help in these areas, too!) She’ll also talk a bit about her current sewing, quilting, and embroidery projects and one of the books she really enjoys. 

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I am on the road again! Join me as I take my annual birthday trip to Seattle to spend Thanksgiving with my two daughters, as well as treat myself to a private class at the Sewing and Design School in Tacoma and—of course!—some fabric shopping. 

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Today, I want to talk about spatial perception, or lack of it. For many years, I thought designing was beyond me, because I have a lot of trouble "seeing" things in my head. I was convinced that creativity only comes from people who can visualize a thing and then figure out how to translate that vision into a finished object. Obviously, I was wrong, but getting to the place where I believed I was a legitimate designer was a journey and one I want to share. If you're struggling with poor spatial perception, take heart!—there is hope. I believe our brains are able to learn new skills. Come along as I fail, repeatedly, to sew a spatially-complicated top and rejoice with me when I finally figure it out. 

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Join me for my first interview show—a visit with knitting instructor, designer, author, and now improv quilter, JC Briar. JC was the technical editor for my cabling newsletter, Twists and Turns, as well as the editor for two of my knitting books. We taught together at Stitches and on a Craft Cruises knitting cruise to Alaska. She is the author of the handy guide Charts Made Simple and the mastermind behind Stitch Maps knitting chart software. We talk about her journey from computer programmer to knitter to improv quilter, what inspires her, and how she channels her unique perspective into her creative expressions. 

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My collection of vintage sewing machines began with a Necchi BF purchased locally. This petite machine once belonged to a professional seamstress, and I'd like to think she is happy that it is still being used. I cover the history of this Italian sewing machine manufacturer and talk about the various models, many of which I own. 

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Coverstitch machines are relatively new to the domestic sewing market but are gaining in popularity. Primarily used for hemming knit garments, a coverstitch machine will elevate the look of your me-made garments. They also have binding and decorative stitch capabilities. In this episode, I'll go over the ins and outs of coverstitch machines,  why you might want one, and how to decide between a standalone machine and a serger/coverstitch combo machine. 

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Join me as I take a road trip across Washington state, then fly from Seattle to Tennessee to attend the Self-Reliance Festival, where I demo'ed spinning yarn for attendees. Along the way, we'll visit some Walmart remnant racks, talk about the ongoing dysfunction at Joann Fabrics, and hear how Macy's actually listened to their customers as they developed and launched an exciting new house brand.  

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In this episode, I talk about the process of finding patterns suitable for teaching a pants class and the pants patterns I tested this week. I also wax eloquently about my favorite machines at the moment: sergers. If you are thinking about buying a serger or upgrading to a newer model, this is the episode for you. 

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In this episode, I talk about what's been happening this week and how raising pigs for market collided with getting ready for our annual craft co-op sale. (If you don't want to hear about the pig issues, you might want to skip this episode, or fast forward through the discussion.) I will review what I've been sewing and also recap some of what I have learned about Joann Fabrics' financial woes and its uncertain future. 

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In today’s episode, we’re going to talk about classes—what to expect as a student taking a sewing or other making class, and what to expect as a teacher. I’ll also talk briefly about how to start a side hustle or even a career as a teacher, if that is something you’d like to do. I’m drawing on years of experience teaching knitting at venues such as Stitches and Knitting Guild of America conferences as well as my current experience teaching sewing and fitting classes regionally. 

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Choosing a sewing machine—either for the first time or as an upgrade from a current machine—is big decision. In this episode, we'll explore setting a budget, deciding on must-have features, and what additional bells and whistles might make your sewing experience even better.  We'll also talk about the Walmart value fabric remnant rack and why you should check it out. 

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In this episode, host Janet Szabo introduces herself and her plans for this podcast about sewing, about people who sew, and about what they sew. 

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In episode 2, we will talk about how to get started on the journey of sewing your own clothes, including choosing pattern sizes, taking measurements, making a bodice sloper, and finding pattern companies whose designs fit you well.