Dressed: The History of Fashion

It's time to add Santa Fe to the list of world fashion centers! May marks the debut of SWAIA Native Fashion Week, the very first Indigenous ?fashion week? in the US dedicated to showcasing the exciting and dynamic creations of Native American and Indigenous Canadian designers. Amber Dawn Bear Robe, the show's visionary director and producer, joins us to tell us what to expect from this historic event.

Want to attend? Get your tickets here!

SWAIA Native Fashion's Instagram

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We continue our exploration into the fashion history of the Gucci family, in part two of a two part past episode from the Dressed archive.

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Today, the name Gucci, with its iconic double "G" logo, is an internationally renowned luxury fashion label. But what of the Gucci family responsible for its creation? In this week's two-part episode from the Dressed archives, we delve into the fashion history of one of the world's most instantly recognizable brands by centering the family responsible for its creation and its heart.

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Waleria Dorgova joins us for for the second part of our episode this week on the artist, interior, fashion and textile designer Sonia Delaunay. Dr. Dorogova co-curated the ground-breaking exhibition with Dr. Laura Microulis, research curator of the Bard Graduate Center, where the exhibition Sonia Delaunay: Living Art is on view through July 7, 2024.

Can't make the exhibition? Check out the exceptional catalog for the show here.

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Now mostly remembered as a painter, this week we look at the broad spectrum of the work of Sonia Delaunay with a special emphasis on her fashion and textile designs. Waleria Dorogova, co-curator of the exhibition Sonia Delaunay: Living Art which is now on view at the Bard Graduate Center in New York City joins us to speak about the years of research she did with Laura Microulis to deliver this fresh new perspective on Sonia's career.

Can't make the exhibition? Check out the exceptional catalog for the show here.

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This week, we are joined by Rebecca Seaver, the Director of Museum & Archive Services for Dolly Parton, and the person responsible for the curated selection of special pieces on view in Dolly's recently published memoir Behind the Seams: My Life in Rhinestones. And thanks to the book's audio companion, we even hear from Dolly herself! 

A special thank you to Rebecca and the Penguin Random House Audio team for the sound bytes featured in today's episode!

Recommended Resources:

Behind the Seams book versionBehind the Seams audio versionRebecca's Instagram

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This week, we are joined by Rebecca Seaver, the Director of Museum & Archive Services for Dolly Parton, and the person responsible for the curated selection of special pieces on view in Dolly's recently published memoir Behind the Seams: My Life in Rhinestones. And thanks to the book's audio companion, we even hear from Dolly herself! 

A special thank you to Rebecca and the Penguin Random House Audio team for the sound bytes featured in today's episode!

Recommended Resources:

Behind the Seams book versionBehind the Seams audio versionRebecca's Instagram

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When fashion designer Salvacion Lim "Slim" Higgins opened her first atelier in Manila in 1947, she ushered in both the golden age of Filipino couture and her own forty-plus year career. Her son Mark Lewis Higgins joins us to discuss her incredible life and legacy.

Recommended additional resources:

SLIM's Fashion School here and here SLIM's Fashion School InstagramVideo on SLIM's legacy

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We revisit a 2021 episode with guest Ayaka Sano who joined us to discuss the early years of the career of Japanese designer Hanae Mori, the first Asian designer admitted to the ranks of French haute couture. Mori's career spanned five decades and the globe, enjoying international success thanks to her seamless and signature blending of euro-American styles with distinctively Japanese textiles and aesthetics. 

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In part II of this week's episode in commemorating the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire which occurred in Lower Manhattan on March 25, 1911, we examine how the fire started, hear from some of the survivors and learn about the sweeping labor reforms and worker protections which followed in its wake.

Recommended resources:

Cornell University's The 1911 Triangle Factory Fire online portal

PBS American Experience: Triangle Fire

Department of Labor/OSHA's The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire portal

Dedication of the Triangle Fire Memorial

Von Drehle, David. Triangle: The Fire that Changed America. New York: Grove/Atlantic Inc., 2003.

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As the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory approaches in a few short days, this week we bring you a two-part episode on the nature of the New York City garment trade at the turn of the 20th century, and how a horrific workplace accident on March 25, 1911 reshaped the landscape of workers rights and protections.

Recommended resources:

Cornell University's The 1911 Triangle Factory Fire online portal

PBS American Experience: Triangle Fire

Department of Labor/OSHA's The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire portal

Von Drehle, David. Triangle: The Fire that Changed America. New York: Grove/Atlantic Inc., 2003.

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This week we chat about the latest in fashion history news including Norma Kamali training an AI to design her legacy, the Oscar nominees for Best Costume Design, a new YSL bookshop in Paris and some of the spectacular pieces up for sale at recent fashion auctions.

Recommended Resources:

Vogue ArchiveKillers of the Flower Moon article by Christian AllaireThe Art of Costume podcasts interview with Holly WaddingtonLight, Camera, Auction resultsBooks: Sheer: Yves Saint Laurent and The World According to Yves Saint LaurentNorma Kamali trains an AIYSL bookshop

?

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In the spirit of prom season being just around the corner, this week we return to a 2020 episode to learn to origins of one of quintessential rites of passage for American teenagers: attending prom. From its roots in debutante culture to its 1850s inception at Ivy League colleges that lead to prom becoming a high school phenomenon, the history of prom spans a surprising 175 years.

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We continue our conversation with Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas about nameplate jewelry, addressing its central and even controversial role in both sub and mainstream cultural expressions, including hip hop. 

Recommended resources:

The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and IdentityDocumenting the Nameplate Instagram 

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Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas join us to discuss their book The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity, which celebrates the myriad of meanings embedded in the multi-cultural and cross-generational phenomenon of nameplate jewelry.

Recommended resources:

The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and IdentityDocumenting the Nameplate Instagram

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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In the wonderful and often bizarre world of fashion fads from history, we ask the question: which should live on to wear another day and which should be left to history?

Recommended resources:

Bedazzled BeetlesHobble SkirtPainted knees

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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Maison Margiela's Spring/Summer Paris 2024 Haute Couture collection show delivered a haunting jolt that is hard to forget. Whether you loved the show or hated it, it was a moment. And that moment?which will undoubtedly go down in fashion history?was also packed with references to the history of fashion itself. Alexandre Samson, Curator of Haute Couture from 1947 to Contemporary Design at the Palais Galliera in Paris joins us to decode the collection.

April and Cassidy also address John Galliano's troubled history of anti-semitism and his restitutive work with the Anti-Defamation League who have publicly lauded the designer's "arduous work to change his world view."

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 collection

Givenchy: The Complete Collections

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An exceptionally famous milliner in her day, the life and career of Mildred Blount has been somewhat lost to history. Curator Taylor Bythewood-Porter joins us to shine a light on the first African-American to be admitted to the Motion Pictures Costumers Union and her glorious on-screen creations for films including Gone With the Wind and Gigi as well as her offscreen successes designing hats for Hollywood stars and Harlem high society.

Mildred Blount Millinery Competition

Mildred Blount Scholarship Fund

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In the early years of the twentieth century, Madam C.J. Walker built an international, Black hair care empire from the ground floor up, transforming herself from a laundry work making $1.50 a day to the woman Guinness World Records identifies as the ?first self-made millionairess.? This week, we learn all about her extraordinary life in an interview with her biographer?and great, great granddaughter?A?Lelia Bundles. 

Recommended Resources:

On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker by A?Lelia Bundles Madam C.J. Walker?s website A?Lelia Bundles website

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In part II of our episode on The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, co-curator Mellissa Huber takes us behind the scenes and shines a light on some of the invisible labor which does into mounting a major fashion in a museum. Can't make the show? Grab a copy of the amazing exhibition catalog here!

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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This week we are joined by Mellissa Huber and Karen Van Godtsenhoven, curators of The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, which is on view at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City through March 10, 2024. The exhibition explores more than 100 years of fashion history via the work of women designers and centers their contributions to the industry at large. Can't make the show? Grab a copy of the amazing exhibition catalog here!

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Fourth generation flower maker Adam Brand takes us behind the scenes of his family's business M&S Schmalberg. Founded by his family in 1916, the company is the last of its kind in America.

M&S Schmalberg's website and Instagram

Etsy store with a 20% discount just for Dressed listeners!

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Fifth generation master pleater George Kalajian?s family has been perfecting the art of the pleat since the 19th century. He joins us to discuss the past, present, and future of his family?s renowned pleating enterprise Tom?s Sons International Pleating, a staple of New York City?s Garment District since the 1970s.

Tom's Sons International Pleating's website and Instagram

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Our favorite vedette, Dita Von Teese, joins us this for part 2 of our conversation this week to chat about being the first-ever guest star at Paris' legendary cabaret, the Crazy House and her current residency in Las Vegas. Her show Dita Las Vegas: A Jubilant Revue is onstage now at the Jubilee Theater, formerly home to iconic acts including Frank Sinatra as well as the showgirl review Jubilee, which ran for 40 years. Dita chats with us about reviving many of the original Jubilee costumes which were designed by Bob Mackie in the 1970s.

Past Dressed episodes of interest:

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 1

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 2

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We are kicking off our seventh season of Dressed in spectacular style as we are joined all this week by the one and only Dita Von Teese!

A longtime vintage collector and star of the neo-burlesque scene, Dita's impact on contemporary visual culture cannot be underestimated. In part one of this two-part episode, we chat about her relationship with vintage style on and off stage and some of the amazing designers she works with to create her unique brand of unparalleled glamour.

Past Dressed episodes of interest:

The Origin of the Poodle Skirt

The Incredible Origin of Cat-Eye Glasses

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 1

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 2

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This week's mini-sode from the Dressed archive explores the story of Juli Lynne Charlot who created an instantly recognizable 1950s classic: the poodle skirt.

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What do millionaires, harlequins and cigarettes have to do with the iconic cat-eye frame? Tune into this fascinating episode from the Dressed archive to find out.

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This week we revisit our 2020 episode dedicated to the work of costume designer, fashion historian and expert on the history of paper patterns, Joy Spanabel Emery, who for many years also served as the Curator of the Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island. Her book A History of the Pattern Pattern: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution is considered a definitive work on the topic, which we know is near and dear to many of our listeners' hearts!

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This week we revisit our episode with fashion historian, couture collector, museum curator, author and Vogue Global Editor-at-Large, Hamish Bowles. He joined us in 2020 to share the childhood origins of his passion for fashion history and the building blocks of his extraordinary life and career.

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This week we explore the symbiotic relationships between modern women, fashion, and cars at the dawn of the twentieth century.

Recommended reading:

Dorothy Levitt's 1909 guidebook FIDM's "Traveling Duster" blogA'Lelia Bundles's On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. WalkerGeorgine Clarsen's Eat My Dust: Early Women ModeristsEmily Remus's A Shoppers? Paradise: How the Ladies of Chicago Claimed Power and Pleasure in the New Downtown

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How did a practical device for catching fish become a coveted and controversial fashion staple? This week, we explore the fascinating thousand-year plus history behind fishnets.

Recommended reading:

History of Hand-KnittingFab Fishnet Images from the 1950s/60s

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Today we revisit our 2020 episode with Kate Sekules who joined us to chat about her book Mend!: A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto which details the history of mending, contemporary visible mending practices and offers tips and techniques to get readers started on their own mending adventures. You can find more on Kate's work at visiblemending.com.

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On the heels of New Year's Day, we revisit the 2019 episode on the history of not only men's suits and formalwear, but specifically the tuxedo. Congrats to our friend Chloe Chapin, who since this episode first aired, is now officially Dr. Chapin!

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We revisit our interview with artist Kirstie Macleod who joined us in 2021 to share the stories behind The Red Dress Project, her then eleven year collaboration empowering women artisans from around the world to share their stories through embroidery. Fast forward to today and the now 14 year old project includes millions of stitches from the work of 380 embroiders from 51 countries.

Recommended resources:

The Red Dress Project's website and InstagramKirstie Macleod's website

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We revisit our episode with filmmaker Adele Pham, who joined us in 2021 to discuss her documentary film Nailed It, which explores the history and influence of Vietnamese American nail salons. 

Recommended link

More information on Nailed It can be found hereWatch Nailed It

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This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. In this second part, Norma speaks about rebuilding her business after divorce and creative spaces in fashion in the wake of the pandemic.

Recommended Reading: Kamali, Norma and Susan Brown. Norma Kamali: I am Invincible. New York: Abrams, 2021.

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This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. From her education as a fashion illustrator to building her brand from the ground up--not once--but twice, Kamali shares her thoughts on life, love and style.

Recommended Reading: Kamali, Norma and Susan Brown. Norma Kamali: I am Invincible. New York: Abrams, 2021.

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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This week we revisit our interview with Academy Award-winning costume designer John Bright to discuss his prolific film and television career spanning five decades. A collector of historic fashion, John is also the founder and owner of the world's leading costume house Cosprop.

Further learning:

Explore The John Bright Collection hereJohn Bright Collection Instagram Cosprop London

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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This week, we revisit the 100th episode of the show which we celebrated with Mary Wilson, founding member of The Supremes and author of the book Supreme Glamour. Ms. Mary joined us to discuss the evolution of the group's now iconic wardrobe and the integral role that fashion--and supreme glamour--played in the success of one of the greatest singing trios of all time.

Recommended reading:

Supreme Glamour by Mary Wilson and Mark

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This week we revisit a conversation with one of our favorite contemporary artists, Fabiola Jean-Louis, who rewrites history by photographing women of color in the historic silhouettes she painstakingly recreates from paper. Jean-Louis' work is currently on view at both The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston.

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This week we revisit our most popular Dressed episode ever! A symbol of glitz, glamour and celebration, we bring you a special holiday edition on the history of glitter.

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Join us for our now annual holiday party where we 'exchange' some of their favorite gifts from fashion's past and present.

Gifts you can gift!

Our very first online course What Women Wore to the RevolutionBooks for our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles18th Century Beauty Box 18th Century Beauty Spots Pressed flower dye kit

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This week marks the 50th anniversary of one of American fashion's greatest moments: the Battle of Versailles. "Halstonette" Chris Royer joins us to discuss her first hand account of modeling in the now legendary fashion face-off between French haute couture and American design.

Want more Battle of Versailles?

The King of Sexy Cling: An Interview with Stephen Burrows The Magic of 1970s Fashion with Pat Cleveland, Part I and Part II Invisible Beauty: An Interview with Bethann Hardison Eleanor Lambert: Empress of 7th Avenue The Battle of Versailles, An Interview with Robin Givhan Robin Givhan's New York Time's Bestselling book The Battle of Versailles

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It's official!!! In today's episode we announce the launch of Dressed: The School of Fashion, chat about Prada's upcoming trip to the moon and recommend some fashion history newsletters to follow.

Recommendations:

Sign up for our first class: What Women Wore to the Revolution, Part IIKEA's Designer Towel Skirt Fashion Newsletters: Laura Beltran Rubio, Laura McLaws Helm, Jo Weldon

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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Have you ever pondered, 'but, what would Jane Austen wear?' We have all the answers for you in this episode, as Dr. Hilary Davidson joins us to talk about her two books: Dress in the Age of Jane Austen and Jane Austen's Wardrobe.

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In today's episode, we answer some listener mail about what is and what isn't fast fashion, discuss the documentary Unboxing Shein and chat about the latest news from The Met's Costume Institute.

Recommended:

Fashion Revolution Transparency Index

Good On You

The True Cost documentary

Unboxing Shein

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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Custom couturier to brides, debutantes and American socialites, including Jacqueline Bouvier and Marjorie Merriweather Post, The Saturday Evening Post once called Ann Lowe "society's best kept secret." Today, we explore the true breadth of Lowe's career with fashion curator Elizabeth Way who joins us to speak about her exhibition Ann Lowe: American Couturier, which is currently on view through January 7, 2024 at the Winterthur Museum in Delaware.

Recommended reading:  Way, Elizabeth, ed. Ann Lowe: American Couturier, New York: Rizzoli Electra, 2023.

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Just as fashion is more than pretty clothes, basketball is more than just a game. Pulitzer Prize winning author Mitchell S. Jackson joins us to discuss why the relationship between fashion and basketball matters historically and today.

Purchase Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion

Mitchell's website

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Fashion luminary and trailblazing model, agent and activist Bethann Hardison joins us to discuss her life and legacy as explored in the new documentary Invisible Beauty.

More on the documentary Invisible Beauty Bethann's websiteOur Battle of Versailles interview with Robin Givan

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In part two of our 2-part episode on the MFA Boston's exhibition Fashioned by Sargent, art historian Dr. Erica Hirshler re-joins us to speak about some of Sargent's most famous works including Madame X and his sensuous portraits of male style icons of the day.

Recommended reading: Hirshler, Erica, et al eds. Fashioned by Sargent. Boston: MFA Publications, 2023.

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